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  • "iota-09" started this thread

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Wednesday, February 18th 2015, 10:13pm

it might even be able to cut diamond and retain the edge, but i doubt i will make much use out of it, fixed blades may be a choice as well even though i might get some bad looks, what i need though is a thin blade (like that of a tanto or similar) that has also a serrated edge(is that the correct word? i mean with the saw-like blade)
for example, a minute ago i was looking at boker knives, and noticed they're made in 440c which apparently seems to be a slighly decent material... what's your thought on that?

as about gloves, i doubt that'd be a problem, unless the knife is extremely stiff(and my father had a little one that was like that, which you couldn't open with conventional methods)

also most times i'd need a knife i should have the time to fiddle with it as much as i want, so that goes to.




...but, i feel like i'm going a little overboard anyway, i doubt i'll buy one right now due to other priorities regarding equipment.
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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 1:44am

What I need though is a thin blade (like that of a tanto or similar) that has also a serrated edge(is that the correct word? i mean with the saw-like blade)
for example, a minute ago i was looking at boker knives, and noticed they're made in 440c which apparently seems to be a slighly decent material... what's your thought on that?

as about gloves, i doubt that'd be a problem, unless the knife is extremely stiff(and my father had a little one that was like that, which you couldn't open with conventional methods)

also most times i'd need a knife i should have the time to fiddle with it as much as i want, so that goes to.



Serrated is the saw-type edge, yes. And I actually don't recommend a Tanto. The idea is that the angle makes for a stronger tip, but unless you are stabbing all the time it's pointless. In fact, the angle where the tip meets the belly is the #1 spot on the blade you will end up cutting with, and as such that is where it will dull the quickest. And, since you will be sharpening that angle all the time, you will eventually wear down the angle and loose both the nice look and the sharpness of that spot unless you reprofile the whole blade, which is a total pain in the ass. I say stick with a typical drop-point or leaf-shaped blade. It'll offer the most cutting surface and be the easiest to care for.
440C is a good steel to use. The 400 series steels are common tool steels, and have mild to good hardness as long as they are heat-treated correctly. But they have to be heat treated, as they are soft in a natural state. I've seen cheap knives with 440C that can't hold an edge because their 440C isn't heat treated, and I've seen very expensive knives in 440C that can literally cut softer steels because they were heat treated. Boker is a decent company, they should make a good product, just keep an eye on the price. Heat-treat service doesn't come cheap, so a $20 knife in 440C probably sucks while a $50 knife in 440C is probably a better option.


As far as edge types go, here's a good guide.
:: Spyderco Edge-U-Cation ::
Your typical cheap knives are all Hollow-ground. It's actually the cheapest and easiest way to grind a knife, and has decent overall properties, but there are better grinds to have. Spyderco is known for Full Flat-grinds which make knives extremely good cutters as the whole blade stays thinner, they end up fuller and stronger along the edge than a hollow-grind, and it offers slightly more utility since it allows the blade to be literally hammered into surfaces since the blade will act like a wedge. You want a nice thin blade, full flat ground is the way to go.

Here.
Amazon.com : Spyderco Tenacious G-10 Combination edge black blade : Hunting Folding Knives : Sports & Outdoors
Full flat grind, good steel, serrated, drop-point blade shape, lightweight, tactical black, easy to use with gloves, and Spyderco branded which means you get their warranty. $40 US. That is a steal!



Speaking from experience if something is hard to use you'll end up not using it. Even if you have all the time in world to fiddle with it and have time to take your gloves off, sometimes you'll be tired or in a rush and you'll get frustrated. You might even not use it just because of the steps involved with using it. I've had knives that fold up with a groove for opening that have no pocket clip and sit in a pouch. Being in a pouch meant I always needed a belt, then if I wanted to use it I needed to take off my gloves (if necessary), open the pouch, get the knife, open knife, use knife, close knife, put in pouch, close pouch, put gloves back on (if necessary). After a while I got tired of it and it sat in a drawer until I got something to replace it.
My current Spyderco, like many other average pocket knives, is pull out of pocket, flip open, cut, close, put in pocket. Doesn't matter what I'm wearing or if I have gloves on, it's always as simple. Fixed blade requires a belt, but it's pull out, cut, put in, done, and I really like the ease and speed of use. If I am wearing a belt, which is actually pretty often these days, I'll sometimes take this:



Kershaw Skyline fixed-blade. It's small, light, holds an edge well, and is easy to sharpen. My Spyderco kicks it's ass in blade steel and portability, but the Kershaw is such a dream to use. I've been carrying it more and more frequently these days, and I have a second one that has a permanent spot in my "Adventure Backpack" for hiking and such.
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This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Watcher-45" (Feb 19th 2015, 2:01am)


  • "iota-09" started this thread

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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 2:19am

So.... this one right?
Spyderco C122GPS - Coltello a serramanico C122gps Tenacious, colore: Nero: Amazon.it: Sport e tempo libero

I'll see if i can get this or otherwise a fixed from kershaw/boker or something generic/more cool looking from boker, i'll think about that another day.

Btw, it seems you're kind of knowledgeable around knives, so i wanted to ask if you can recognize a knife for me,one i received as a present 'cause the guy who gave me found it somewhere, i don't know much about the knife itself, i know only that is spring-assist foldable, black both the grip and the blade(which is a standard shape blade) material of the blade i don't know, the grip is probably alluminium, most importantly, the design of athe grip has a chromed galil on both sides, and on the blade there is the mark "black hawk" with an emblem that looks like an upside-down elite force logo.

Any idea? Also the edge on the front seems to wear quite easily and i nearly never use it.

Photos tomorrow.


P.s.: i wanted a tanto blade, because i might be in a situatiin where i have tu take off a muzzzle that is extremely hard to detach from the gun or maybe just clean it from a block of earth, and the long and thin point can be used for both levarege and cleaning on most muzzles, basically, a replacement for pliers.
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bf4
on 13/05/2016
23rd M320FB user on pc(13/05/16)
rush mode score RANK:2794 TOP:2% OUT OF:215398
obliteration mode scoreRANK:994 TOP:1% OUT OF:159466
handgun medals RANK:2236 TOP:2% OUT OF:143874
longest headshot RANK:9512 TOP:4% OUT OF:257589
recon score RANK:10871 TOP:4% OUT OF:274899
general score per minute RANK:10016 TOP:4% OUT OF:294774

bf3
31/3/2012 4:58:

Headshot distance RANK:493* TOP:0%
Revives per assault minute RANK: 6019 TOP: 3%
Headshots / kill percentage RANK:25947 TOP:13%
MVP ribbons RANK:18824 TOP:11%

*= 6 if we not count the EOD BOT headshots

@kataklism

ARGUMENT DESTROYED 100

ENEMY KILLED [REASON] JSLICE20 100


WRITING SPREE STOPPED 500

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This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "iota-09" (Feb 19th 2015, 2:30am)


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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 7:55am

So.... this one right?
Spyderco C122GPS - Coltello a serramanico C122gps Tenacious, colore: Nero: Amazon.it: Sport e tempo libero

I'll see if i can get this or otherwise a fixed from kershaw/boker or something generic/more cool looking from boker, i'll think about that another day.


Photos tomorrow.


P.s.: i wanted a tanto blade, because i might be in a situatiin where i have tu take off a muzzzle that is extremely hard to detach from the gun or maybe just clean it from a block of earth, and the long and thin point can be used for both levarege and cleaning on most muzzles, basically, a replacement for pliers.




That's the one. They have them both with and without serrations and in a black finish if you like that. Honestly, they aren't that much more expensive for you either. The one you have pictured for 48 Euros would roughly convert to $58 USD, and listed on my Amazon it's $44 USD. Not too bad. I'd definitely go with that one. It's not too much more than those Walther knives, and is about the same as one of the Bear Grylls ones you listed, but it's so much more knife. If you get it you won't regret it. In fact, it might turn you into a knife guy, like me.
I am the one kid who got a cheap pocket knife when he grew old enough just because he could, but when I started using the knife all the time I learned all of it's shortcomings. Learned what I did and did not like in a pocket knife and eventually got to the ultimate, which I feel is my PM2.
I've had Tanto edges, I don't like them. I think they are a waste and actually hinder the performance of a utility knife.
I also don't like serrations. Though they come in handy sometimes with cutting very thick materials, I find most of the time they are wasted, they are difficult and time consuming to sharpen, and sometimes they even get in the way. On top of that they don't cut nice. They tend to tear rather than slice, and they don't even do so good at sawing so they make even less sense on a survival knife, if you ask me.
I'd say don't worry about the serrations unless you are planning on cutting rope all the time. If you like them, I won't talk you out of them, I just think they are unnecessary.


Now, I would never recommend using a blade as a prying tool. They are designed as cutting tools and that's it. Can they pry? Yes. Will they break when prying? Very possibly. For that, a Tanto will not fair any better than a drop-point. Actually, in most cases a drop point will have a longer and thinner point on it and allow you to really reach in, and in that case it might actually allow you to use a thicker part of the blade for applying torque. I'm imagining you putting the blade into the slits in the side of a muzzle brake and using the knife to then turn it.

A former friend of mine broke the tip off my ParaMilitary2 when he used it to try and remove a dust seal from a motorcycle's suspension. He asked to borrow my knife while I was reading a user manual and I just handed it to him without asking what he needed it for, next I hear him go "Oh shit!". He had jammed the tip into the seal and tried to pull it up and broke the tip off ruining my knife. He offered to replace the knife and when I told him it was a $150 knife he turned white. Luckily, being a machinist, I was just able to re-profile the tip myself on a grinder and save the blade. I even talked to Spyderco about it and they said that first of all they don't warranty against knife abuse, which this clearly was, and secondly they don't reprofile blades so they would do a blade replacement which would cost me $100. So it was either spend $100 on a new blade, $150 on a whole new knife, or grind a new tip on myself. I figured if I'm gonna spend over $100 anyway might as well get a new knife, but if I have the possibility of salvaging my broken knife I have to at least try first. So I fixed it myself and the tip came out better than I was expecting. I still am upset to this day about it, and I still want a shiny new PM2 in silver to match my all black used and abused PM2, but I don't have the money right now.


And as far as identifying your mystery knife goes, I might be a knife guy but I'm far from an expert or a collector. I don't know all brands and styles of knives any more than I know every kind of firearm out there or every kind of motorcycle on the road. I have a developed interest and knowledge, but that's as far as it goes. Please do post pictures and I'll try to help, if I can. That being said, I am drawing a blank from your description.
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This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "Watcher-45" (Feb 19th 2015, 8:05am)


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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 11:58am

well, let's hope for good then! should be be part of my 3rd airsoft/outdoor purchase(first comes mags and tactical vest/gilet/whatever, second a sight 'cos i can't aim for shit with iron sights and third this+gloves)
yep, i can see why a tanto might not be ideal for cutting, but i'd probably buy it more for look than anything else, in fact i want to have something like 3 knives: one for abuse(the one i have at the moment should work as well, as i don't need much of an edge for what i'm thinking) one for general and airsoft use, in which comes the spyderco, and a last one that i can use,sure, but i'm looking mostly for coolnes, and as i like tanto blades i think i'll buy one of those for that(maybe on christmas?) possibly fixed.
ouch, welp, guess i have to learn much more about knife strenghts, maybe after all that shitty knife from walther wasn't that bad of idea as it had pliers... nah, in that case a might fare better.
would also love to be able doing that, but i guess it has to do with much work and tecnicality, to not say machinery...

as for the unknown knife, here are some photos:
http://i.imgur.com/Kj3yNus.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/kOSnUPF.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wrnNNsc.jpg
i might end up selling it.


post 2:

@Exyia

i waited too much and can't buy anymore those magnificent mags, so... any other mag reccomendation for the tavor?
"I'm just a loot whore."


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bf4
on 13/05/2016
23rd M320FB user on pc(13/05/16)
rush mode score RANK:2794 TOP:2% OUT OF:215398
obliteration mode scoreRANK:994 TOP:1% OUT OF:159466
handgun medals RANK:2236 TOP:2% OUT OF:143874
longest headshot RANK:9512 TOP:4% OUT OF:257589
recon score RANK:10871 TOP:4% OUT OF:274899
general score per minute RANK:10016 TOP:4% OUT OF:294774

bf3
31/3/2012 4:58:

Headshot distance RANK:493* TOP:0%
Revives per assault minute RANK: 6019 TOP: 3%
Headshots / kill percentage RANK:25947 TOP:13%
MVP ribbons RANK:18824 TOP:11%

*= 6 if we not count the EOD BOT headshots

@kataklism

ARGUMENT DESTROYED 100

ENEMY KILLED [REASON] JSLICE20 100


WRITING SPREE STOPPED 500

link to full-size old avatar:
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This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "iota-09" (Feb 19th 2015, 2:33pm)


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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 3:39pm



post 2:

@Exyia

i waited too much and can't buy anymore those magnificent mags, so... any other mag reccomendation for the tavor?

These are other mags I used before I found the earlier G&P ones





look for a similar pattern along the lower half of the magazine and also that the front width isn't slanted like these:



if you can't find those on your side of the ocean....I would look into GI-style magazines from there. All the other polymer magazines I've tried are all thinner than normal - which for how the magwell is on the Tavor, can have annoying magazine wobble

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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 6:09pm

nope, can't find shit, the ones i found that look the most like the ones you posted are from dytac, otherwise there are standard(G&p) and pmag(pretty much everyone else)
also saw some weird looking mags from ares, but i doubt those are good, right?
"I'm just a loot whore."


stuff mostly unrelated to BF4 that interests nobody



bf4
on 13/05/2016
23rd M320FB user on pc(13/05/16)
rush mode score RANK:2794 TOP:2% OUT OF:215398
obliteration mode scoreRANK:994 TOP:1% OUT OF:159466
handgun medals RANK:2236 TOP:2% OUT OF:143874
longest headshot RANK:9512 TOP:4% OUT OF:257589
recon score RANK:10871 TOP:4% OUT OF:274899
general score per minute RANK:10016 TOP:4% OUT OF:294774

bf3
31/3/2012 4:58:

Headshot distance RANK:493* TOP:0%
Revives per assault minute RANK: 6019 TOP: 3%
Headshots / kill percentage RANK:25947 TOP:13%
MVP ribbons RANK:18824 TOP:11%

*= 6 if we not count the EOD BOT headshots

@kataklism

ARGUMENT DESTROYED 100

ENEMY KILLED [REASON] JSLICE20 100


WRITING SPREE STOPPED 500

link to full-size old avatar:
http://i.imgur.com/4X0321O.gif




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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 6:48pm

nope, can't find shit, the ones i found that look the most like the ones you posted are from dytac, otherwise there are standard(G&p) and pmag(pretty much everyone else)
also saw some weird looking mags from ares, but i doubt those are good, right?

no idea on the Ares. they're pretty expensive stateside, so people just go with something else usually :(

I'm told MAG branded magazines are some of the best if you have them available. But their metal ones are pretty expensive compared to other options

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Thursday, February 19th 2015, 10:24pm

I'm told MAG branded magazines are some of the best if you have them available. But their metal ones are pretty expensive compared to other options
from what I've heard MAG-brand magazines can be pretty hit-and-miss when it comes to QC. They also usually have polymer externals which aren't as sturdy as a steel set of King Arms midcaps (even though I just bought a 10-pack of KA polymer mags :whistling: ).
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Friday, February 20th 2015, 3:59am

I'm told MAG branded magazines are some of the best if you have them available. But their metal ones are pretty expensive compared to other options
from what I've heard MAG-brand magazines can be pretty hit-and-miss when it comes to QC. They also usually have polymer externals which aren't as sturdy as a steel set of King Arms midcaps (even though I just bought a 10-pack of KA polymer mags :whistling: ).
I stand corrected then. don't really have any other input on magazines then. Had a local store closing out and they had the G&P mags....decided I would eventually need a ton over time, so just splurged on all the ones they had. Haven't bought magazines since lol

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