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  • "Watcher-45" started this thread

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: May 5th 2012

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Monday, December 22nd 2014, 8:00am

Underbore is good for both (solid contact means equal force all around the ball and obviously no air leakage) but will be more prone to ball breaking.

I do try to slightly under-bore, but it is still a good idea to get a kit, as over the years the trend has been smaller and smaller paintballs (to save on material? who knows why). Also, paintballs do tend to swell in hot weather as well as shrink in the cold, so it is possible to have to change bore size in the middle of a big game.

Finally, my smallest insert is .670 :P I got that specially for running Reballs. So I can't really follow your advice lol....

I used to be really active on TechPB and interested in Punkworks. I think I was mildly involved with the discussion thread on that very topic, before, during, and after the testing. I swear by what they discovered.

As to the small bore leading to ball breakage, I don't know if that is necessarily true. I've been playing with my .682 bore for years and have shot paint that I got stuck in the barrel fitting by hand. It broke when I tried to push it out with a rod, but I didn't have a break in actual shooting.

It was rare I got a break with any of my guns. Did they happen? Sure. They're paintballs and by nature on the brittle side, but breaks were hardly the result of a tight barrel. Maybe in the humid midwest the balls are on the softer side and more forgiving on being squeezed down, I'm not sure, but others I have talked to around the country that also subscribe to the 24/7 underbore theory have supported my claims that the amount of breaks they have are unchanged or directly traceable to the paint that day (as in everyone is getting breaks).

Here's something too, and this is more specifically to my Lapco Bigshot since it is devoid of porting until the muzzle. It shot clean. Even better so than J&J Ceramic barrels, which was their main selling point. I even stopped carrying squeegees on the field because if I did have a barrel break, the next shot would clean it out.
First time I noticed it I just had a ball pop on the way out during a string of fire with my RT-Pro micro. I noticed the break but couldn't stop shooting, and later when I took the barrel off to clean it I looked down it and it was smooth and dry! The muzzle, which is IIRC about a 0.750 bore for the last 2 inches, and the porting had evidence, but the bore was perfect! I screwed it back on and went back to shooting it, and it was shooting like nothing ever happened.

A combination of the bore being small and the porting being all at the end meant the next ball literally wiped the paint clean and blew it all out the muzzle. The larger muzzle diameter where the porting was meant that whatever fouling was left in the porting would never interfere with the ball travelling down the bore.

I tell you man, if there was ever a perfect barrel that was it!
All bike, all the time!

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